The love affair Black women have with braids is rooted in creativity, identity, and hair health. The woven look provides reprieve from everyday manipulation, promotes hair growth, and offers versatility. And while cost and maintenance are driving factors in the use of human and synthetic braiding hair, a recent report reveals a troubling discovery: the presence of toxic substances.
Between the horror stories of incessant itching, redness, hair loss, and swelling, it’s clear that something is wrong with many braiding hair options on the market. That said, a 2026 Consumer Reports follow-up study confirmed the worst. Of the 30 human hair and synthetic hair brands tested, all but one brand, Dosso Beauty, tested positive for heavy metals. Additionally, many brands tested positive for high levels of contaminants, including carcinogens and volatile organic compounds (VOCs)—both of which are associated with skin irritation and potential long-term health risks.
As expected, these findings reflect long-standing concerns in the Black community. And while various brands claim their products are “itch-free,” “safe,” and made of top-quality materials, these results raise several questions: Why are brands engaging in false advertising? Are these brands utilizing rigorous testing? This is where learning the ins and outs of clinical trials comes in handy.
What are clinical trials?
Clinical trials in the cosmetics industry are structured studies used to evaluate whether a product aligns with a brand’s claims of safety, performance, and effectiveness. These studies typically involve crafting a documented trial plan, conducting observation periods, and performing standard test assessments, such as skin or scalp responses and overall product experience.
In the case of braiding hair, cosmetic safety evaluations may include monitoring scalp sensitivity during extended wear and assessing user comfort over time. These human-use studies are often paired with laboratory testing—from dipping hair in hot water to burning hair samples—that screens materials for specific chemical compounds or impurities.
The purpose of clinical trials is for brands to use these results to further support their product safety claims or make formulation improvements. However, since the braiding hair industry is largely unregulated by the Food and Drug Administration, it’s easy for brands to make unsubstantiated claims due to the lack and/or absence of transparent testing, making it harder for consumers to assess product safety.
Keep in mind, although laboratory testing can identify the presence of specific substances, human-use studies offer a different perspective by observing how a product interacts with real consumers. Depending on the study, researchers may monitor factors such as irritation, redness, itching, sensitivity, and overall user experience. Together, these methods can provide a more complete picture of a product's performance and tolerability.
For consumers, this distinction matters because a product's ingredients and a person's individual response are two different parts of the safety conversation. Laboratory testing can help determine what is present in a product, while human-use evaluations can provide insight into how the product performs when used as intended. Neither approach exists in isolation; together, they can give brands a clearer understanding of how a product may perform before making safety or performance claims.
Why does scalp health matter when wearing braids?
Although testing the materials used to make braiding hair is key when evaluating hair safety, it’s not the full picture. Scalp health comes into play, especially because protective styling can affect both the scalp and the hair. Simply put, for people who wear protective styles, maintaining a healthy scalp goes a long way in promoting hair growth and comfort. Maintaining a healthy scalp can help reduce the risk of irritation, hair loss, and other concerns that may compromise the benefits of a protective style.
“The type of braiding hair used, along with the tension applied during installation, can greatly affect scalp health,” Dr. Jometra Hawkins of the African American Health Coalition (AAHC) shares. “Products that contain alcohol or sulfates can lead to dryness, while excessive tension can cause traction alopecia. We encourage individuals to consult with dermatologists or trichologists for personalized advice on minimizing these risks.”
What can a scalp examination reveal?
A scalp examination puts hair health and hair goals into perspective for consumers. At ENVSN Fest 2026, the AAHC brought that approach directly to consumers through private trichology and dermatology scoping sessions. During the sessions, practitioners examined attendees' scalps and skin under a microscope, allowing them to see their scalp health in real time and identify potential concerns that might not be apparent to the naked eye.
“Under a microscope, we can observe conditions like folliculitis, scalp psoriasis, and other scalp disorders that may not be visible externally,” Dr. Hawkins reveals. “These conditions can significantly affect hair health and growth. For detailed analysis and treatment options, we always recommend consulting with a dermatologist.”
Dr. Hawkins also points to several common scalp conditions that can affect people who wear protective styles. Because some concerns may not be immediately visible, consumers may not realize what's affecting their scalp or hindering their hair goals.
“Some prevalent scalp and skin concerns include alopecia, eczema, and psoriasis,” she says. “Factors contributing to these issues often include improper installation techniques, prolonged tension from styles, and the use of harsh products. Our Skin Deep Melanin Matters Initiative aims to address these concerns by promoting awareness and education on scalp and skin health.”
What should consumers look for before and after a braiding install?
Consumers should watch for several symptoms before and after a braid install. In many cases, it’s easy to explain away symptoms you see or attribute them to something else. That said, Dr. Hawkins says that before getting a braid install, symptoms including scalp tenderness, inflammation, or any existing skin conditions should be evaluated by a professional before styling.
As for a post-install, “symptoms like persistent itching, burning sensations, redness, tenderness, or excessive flaking should be considered warning signs,” she states. Dr. Hawkins says that these symptoms can point to a possible allergic reaction instead of being attributed to the result of a braiding install.
Consumers should also remember that discomfort doesn't necessarily have to be severe to warrant attention. If irritation persists or worsens after installation, addressing it early may help prevent a more serious scalp concern. And while removing the style may be necessary in some cases, persistent or concerning symptoms should be evaluated by a dermatologist who can determine the appropriate next steps.
“Understanding scalp health is vital in the broader conversation about the safety of braiding hair,” she says. “It helps address misconceptions and promotes safe practices among those who wear protective styles. Our partnerships with dermatologists and trichologists enhance our ability to provide accurate information and resources.”
This is why the ENVSN Fest pop-up experience with Dosso Beauty helped to showcase the importance of booking regular dermatology and trichology consultations.
How does Dosso Beauty incorporate clinical trials with its braiding hair?
Dosso Beauty understands the importance of radical transparency. Since our inception, we have been open about our commitment to ensuring that our clinically tested Non-Toxic Hypoallergenic Braiding Hair is developed with consumer safety in mind. To support these standards, we have conducted two independent clinical trials.
On April 22, 2025—Earth Day—we publicly released results from its clinical trials. The first trial, conducted by the Princeton Consumer Review from March 11, 2024, to April 22, 2024, evaluated the braiding hair across more than 100 participants with diverse skin types. The purpose of the study was to assess scalp sensitivity and user experience over time.
Following multiple patch tests and usage evaluations, results indicated that our clinically tested braiding hair was well tolerated across participants. It also did not trigger common irritation responses such as itching or redness, supporting our claims as an allergy-tested, hypoallergenic, non-toxic option.
In a second study conducted from September 1, 2024, to September 5, 2024, Shenzen Huaxiang Testing Co. evaluated our braiding hair against European Union cosmetic safety standards. The findings indicated that our product met EU regulatory standards for banned substances, including heavy metals.
This distinction is significant, given that the European Union has banned over 1,300 cosmetic ingredients, compared to 11 in the United States.
Why do multiple layers of testing matter?
When it comes to braiding hair, safety isn't determined by a single test. Laboratory analysis can identify potentially harmful substances, while clinical and human-use testing can provide insight into how a product is tolerated by consumers. Scalp examinations and education add another layer, helping consumers recognize existing concerns and understand how factors like tension, installation, and length of wear can affect scalp health.
While our clinical trials demonstrate strong safety and performance outcomes, we recognize that product safety is an ongoing responsibility. Continuous collaboration with manufacturers and third-party testing partners remains a top priority in maintaining product integrity, especially given the low levels of VOCs in our braiding hair reported in the Consumer Reports study.
Dosso Beauty positions itself as a leader in scalp-conscious braiding hair safety, and its commitment to formulating clean beauty products remains. The goal is simple: crafting scalp-safe braiding hair made with intention, love, and sustainability in mind.